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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the family totally surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble place achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary honour.